Archive for the ‘Tutorials’ Category

Hi guys!

I spent these days playing with new materials, and I took some pics of one of my trying sessions. I think it’s a good idea to put all together and show you what happened these days with the new materials I got. This is an explanation about what I did, not a real tutorial because I’m pretty sure there are hundreds of better ways to do this.

I used natural liquid latex and dental plaster for this. I think these materials are not specially interesting for small scales but I think they are really good for basing and for large scale stuff, vehicles or whatever. Try them and tell me what you think!

I wanted to make a dental plaster copy of a piece of wall I made some time ago just to make it easy to carve and sand.

I started preparing a place to make the mould using a plastic piece and some tape to fill the gaps between the plastic and the piece:

 photo IMGP3269_zpsc0ad6bab.jpg

The next pic shows the backside of the plastic, as you can see the tape fills the holes of the sides:
 photo IMGP3273_zps4fd2a2ec.jpg photo IMGP3275_zps53905d67.jpg

The idea is just to cover the space between the piece and the plastic. See the effect?
 photo IMGP3272_zps2a573b71.jpg photo IMGP3276_zps57b3b23c.jpg photo IMGP3279_zps087e62bd.jpg

Now it’s the time to add the latex all over the preform of the mould. The latex must be added in thin layers to let it dry correctly.

First we add a thin layer of latex and we let it dry, we go on with new layers until the surface is flat. In this case 4 layers were enough. The videos are in spanish because it’s my mother language but I promise to make some videos in english. Don’t worry, you can follow the videos with the english subtitles!

Just that, I hope you enjoy it.

C&C are welcome!

  • I recommend this tutorial by Scratch Attack (It’s in Spanish).



Sketching tool

Posted: 4 May 2014 in Tutorials


This is a tool I made for sculpting large scale figures and as a fast sketching tool.
It’s very interesting when working with FIMO for the first steps on the anatomy, it allows you to blend the first volumes roughly.


Take some chopsticks:
You can see one of the sides is round and the other is more rectangular shaped.

Cut them to the size you prefer:
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 photo 4_zpsb04ced3c.jpg

With a cutter, make the rectangular side more round:

Sharpen the rectangular side with a pencil sharpener:

Smooth the surface roughly with the cutter:

Start the shape in the other side:

Smooth both sides with sandpaper:


Now, protect the tool with superglue:

Put superglue in a paper:

Put the sides of the tool in te superglue and cover all the wood with it:


Sometimes it happens this if you put too much superglue in the surface:

In that case, just sand it again:

Now, put a little bit more of superglue on it. To make it more smooth, put superglue in the tool but clean it in a plastic surface. That way you’ll put a fine layer of superglue on the tool

See the brightness?

You can sand it a little bit to achieve a very smooth surface:

Later, you can put tape as handgrip:

And this is the result!

I hope you like it!


Using my little oven

Posted: 22 November 2013 in Tutorials
Tags: , ,

Hi mates,

I took some pics for a friend and I think it’s interesting for you to see this little tip about using a mini-oven to bake the Fimo/sculpey/beesputty/uro… (I’ll name it fimo )

Let’s see…

First you can get one like this in a supermarket, they are around 20 or 30€.

You can see the size better here:

It’s better if you buy one with temperature regulation but mine doesn’t have it and it’s not a big problem.

Make sure it is a traditional oven, not a microwave oven. This is very important because you can’t bake fimo in a microwave oven.

How does it work?

Well… the current goes through this resistors (the tubes of the image at the left) and warms them (Joule heating). My oven consumes 350W.

That means in this oven the heat comes from the top.  It’s very important to know where does the heat come because the fimo could be burned and, if it happens, the miniature will break. I say it breaks but, in fact, the clay expands, emits bad gases and it appears a bubbly brown surface on it (I’ll post some pics of the result later).

To avoid that I put a piece of aluminium paper between the miniature and the resistors (imagine that the dwarf is a miniature I sculpted):

With that we make the heat strike the miniature uniformely.

Now the time, well… I don’t preheat the oven and I put the time wheel in from 5 to 8 minutes depending on the size of the figure, after that I let the oven cool totally with the miniature inside it and the door closed.

I reached this timing technique doing some tries, but if your oven has a thermometer you’ll control too much better the timing to adjust it to the clay you are using.If you don’t have a thermometer and you want one, you can buy it separately and put it into the oven when it’s working.

And that’s all!

I hope it’s useful.

Hi there!

I have a new sculpting tool to show you, it’s nice for sculpting chain mails, eyes, hair… and many many things.

You can create yours in few minutes (I think I spent 15 minutes or less including the photos…) and it’s very helpfull and cheap.

I think it’s enough with the photos.


Try to reach this shape, you can also make different shapes you need for different applications

Different view

Here you have the result.
You can make it and try, I’m sure it will be interesting for you.